Travel: our traditional harvest lunch in the heart of Champagne, France

Fact #37: life tastes better with Champagne. Scientifically proven.

Recently, I got plenty of opportunity to validate these important scientific findings. I don't know if I mentioned this before, but Jean and I got married about a month ago in Epernay, in the heart of the Champagne region in France. I know, a dream come true, still squealing with excitement inside!

Anyway, we hadn't planned it that way, but it turned out our wedding day was actually the very first day of the 'vendanges' or harvest that year, so the whole region was buzzing. 

Every year in September, weather permitting, the grapes are picked by hand, crushed, and stored, beginning a process that changes depending on each Champagne house, and whether they're creating Brut non vintage, or other varieties like rosé, vintages, or prestige vintages.

Thousands of seasonal workers flock to Champagne from all over Europe for the 'vendanges', which last for about 3 weeks. Some of them stay in tents, others in caravans, motels or boarding houses. They work pretty hard during the day, starting early in the morning. And one of the 'traditions' of vendanges is that each Champagne house has to provide daily lunch to all the seasonal workers who work for them.

And that traditional 'vendanges' lunch, my friends, is quite a sight, let me tell you. Think long communal tables with all the workers and 'vignerons', a glass of red, homemade pates, slow-cooking regional dishes, baguettes and cheese aplenty, and yummy tarts. Oh, and Champagne aperitif of course.

Established in 1822, Bauget-Jouette is a fantastic family-owned Champagne house based in Epernay. They're still using a traditional press and have some of the best vineyards in the region - hence a most excellent champagne.

On the Monday just after our wedding, Jean and I were lucky enough to be invited to share the 'vendanges' lunch at Champagne Bauget-Jouette, owned and managed by friends of Jean's parents.

And Oh-my-God, the lunch was delicious - and just the perfect way to unwind after the wedding!! The sun was shining high that day too, we couldn't have asked for more...

 

On the menu that day: home-made terrine, marinated herring, tuna salad with cucumber and tomatoes from the kitchen garden, and the most delicious slow-cooked rabbit dish (which, I know, is a bit controversial talking to Aussies).

This was a family recipe by owner (and cook for the day) Béatrice Bauget Jouette, using cinnamon, clove, honey, pepper and all-spice loaf or "pain d'épices". So, so tasty...

The lovely Béatrice Bauget Jouette serving us her signature homemade potato mash. Béatrice and her friends Regina (on the right, who helped with the cooking) and Mina (on the left, Jean's mother). 

After the rabbit dish, we got to enjoy a really nice regional cheese platter served with baguettes, followed by a plum tart to die for... Pure bliss!

We could have stayed there all afternoon but unfortunately, we had to drive back to Paris the same day. So we drank our sorrows away... with a glass of Champagne as soon as we arrived home. Just another confirmation for us of scientific fact #38: Champagne tastes just a bit better in Paris.

So tell me, dear reader, have you ever tried rabbit before? What did you think? Or is it a bit too 'out there' for non-French palates?

For more information on Champagne Bauget Jouette, visit www.bauget-jouette.fr. And we strongly recommend the Epernay Tourist Office website if you're interested in visiting the region - lots of info on cellar doors.

Comments

[Robin_Dickinson]

What a delicious story, Myriam!

That said, I must confess that my tastes have changed ever so slightly regarding certain meats since acquiring a pet rabbit - so I found your menu slightly hare-raising!! ;)

Best wishes,

Robin :)

[Lorraine @ Not Quite Nigella]

What a wonderful story and thanks for sharing our such an amazing experience with us! :)

[Catherine White]

Your story is riveting Myriam -- but like Robin, my tastes have changed over the years. I now don't eat meat.

However, I will tell you my first husband took me out with his father on a number of rabbit hunting expeditions.

It literally was a hare raising experience, as the rabbits were skinned when they were captured.

I became a vegetarian, not because I'm demonstrating for land rights for gay whales, but for health reasons.

Needless to say, after reading your blog, my mouth is watering ...what time is it? 3.00 pm ...is that too early to crack open a bottle of vino? :-)

Salute
Catherine

[Myriam]

Lorraine > Thank you my dear, wish you could have been with us in Champagne ;-)

[Myriam]

Robin > ah ah, you're hilarious!! We also have that rule in France to stay away from pet animals, but I guess we don't have that many domestic rabbits around, so we don't mind eating them ;-)

[Myriam]

Catherine > Thank you my dear for your lovely comments, coming from you that's an honour... I know, I can't stand hunting, a bit too gore from me.

I have to say, I'm not a meat person myself. Just like you, it's not for moral reasons but rather because of personal taste preferences. I eat meat maybe 2 or 3 times a week, max (part when I'm in France of course, then I go crazy on charcuterie!).

Anyway, might grab myself a nice glass of red now that's it's 4pm, I thought yours was a rather good idea ;-)

[Robin_Dickinson]

Don't you mean hare-larious! ;)

[Myriam]

you're just splitting hares, Rob ;-)

[Epernay france]

I have been to Epernay and is a very pretty town. It is having perfectly maintained vineyards into the valleys. There are about 15,000 growers out of which 4,100 produce their own champagne to taste different champagne we occasionally stopped off in the vicinity.