Detours. A French expat’s insider's guide to exclusive food, chocolate and travel experiences in Sydney, Australia.

Postcard from the Great Ocean Road, Australia

Hello there! Just a quick postcard from the 12 Apostles on the Great Ocean Road in Victoria, south west of Melbourne.

I have to say, this was one of my best road trips ever: fabulous landscapes, iconic beaches, amazing wildlife (lots of koalas in the wild!) and national parks, great bushwalking, good surf (not so much my cup of tea but husband raved about the waves, we even stopped at the World Surfing Museum in Torquay, definitely worth a visit), and really good food too, from hole-in-the-wall fresh fish eateries to more sophisticated gourmet spots such as Chris's Restaurant in the Otways.

If you can, try to spend a couple of days there, because there's a lot to do and a day trip won't give the Great Ocean Road justice... To plan your trip, check out the local Tourist Office website, lots of interesting info.

So tell me dear reader, have you already visited the Great Ocean Road? Which other road trips did you like best in Australia?

Australian Christmas gift ideas roundup, Part 1

One of the questions I get asked all the time from friends, relatives and clients visiting Sydney from overseas is: "What can I buy as a gift to bring back home, that's typically Australian and not too cheesy?"

 

With Christmas only a couple of weeks away, and many visitors coming to town for the end-of-year celebrations and Sydney Festival, I thought now was the perfect time to share some of my favourite local gift ideas.

So from books and edible goodies to designer jewelry, cosmetics, sustainable design and theatre subscriptions - here are some top picks from my little black book...

 

 

 

Part 1: My Top-5 Cookbooks / food books

Bentley, by Brent Savage

For whom: the keen amateur cook, the food blogger, the bartender

In a nutshell: highly talented and creative young chef Brent Savage and sommelier Nick Hildebrandt are the dynamic duo behind one of Sydney's hottest restaurants – Bentley Restaurant & Bar in Surry Hills. This informative and gorgeous coffee-table book includes step-by-step photography so you can replicate some of the restaurant’s cutting-edge recipes in your kitchen.

The Songs of Sapa, by Luke Nguyen 

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For whom: the gourmet traveller, the Surry Hills foodie, the photography lover

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In a nutshell: travelling on a personal and culinary tour through Vietnam, Luke Nguyen – of Surry Hills Vietnamese restaurant Red Lantern fame – visits his family and friends, and is invited into the homes of local Vietnamese food experts and cooks. Be tempted by more than 100 recipes and stunning photographs bursting with colour and texture, capturing the beauty of Vietnam.

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Crown St Cooks

 

For whom: the budding Junior Masterchef, the philanthropist, the sustainable food advocate

In a nutshell: a beautifully photographed community cookbook showcasing the recipes of talented home cooks and world-famous chefs such as Mark Best, Kylie Kwong and Bill Granger, all based on iconic Crown Street in Sydney’s Surry Hills. A gift that keeps on giving too: all money raised goes towards the Salvation Army’s Oasis Youth Support Program and buying much-needed equipment for the historic Crown Street Public School and its Kitchen Garden project. Available online at www.crownstreetcooks.com.au.

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Quay, by Peter Gilmore

For whom: the proud Sydney-sider, the high flyer, the dessert geek

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In a nutshell: superstar Sydney chef Peter Gilmore is one of the top 50 chefs in the world. His beautiful photography and nature-based signature recipes, including the famous snow egg of MasterChef finale fame, will take you on visual and culinary journey like no other.

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Cravat-a-licious, by Matt Preston

For whom: the aspiring food writer, the MasterChef fan, anyone thinking of moving to Melbourne

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In a nutshell: the very best food and travel stories from MasterChef judge Matt Preston. This book will take you from the best restaurants in the world to grungy hole in the walls on the wrong side of town; from Granny’s jam-making recipes to lunch at a Sikh temple in the suburbs. Witty, informative and actually quite moving.

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These books are available from most bookstores (Ariel Books, Berkelouw, Booktopia, Dymocks, Kinokuniya). Please note prices may vary.

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So tell me dear reader, do you like offering and/or receiving books for Christmas? Which other Australian cookbooks will be under your Christmas tree this year?

Chocolate with street cred in Barcelona, Spain

"Rajoles" chocolates by Enric Rovira in Barcelona. Image courtesy of TrendsLab.

Barcelona is becoming to chocolate lovers what Paris and Milan are to fashionistas. The Holy Grail, the place to shop.

Of course, it's hard to beat cities like Paris, Brussels or New York when you're talking serious chocolate. But Barcelona (and Spain for that matter) is home to extremely talented, creative and innovative chocolate artisans too - with people such as Oriol Balaguer (ex-El Bulli, great interview in the New York Times earlier this month), Enric Rovia (see another post here), Cacao Sampaka, Paco Torreblanca, Bubo's Carles Mampel and Yann Duytsche producing some of the very best chocolate in the world right now.

Anyway, one of the chocolates I liked best when I last visited Barcelona were these square "Rajoles" chocolate bars created by Enric Rovira and inspired by the famous street tiles of Barcelona.

“Rajoles” is a Catalan word that means “tiles”. These tiles were designed by famous Spanish architect Josep Puig i Cadalfalch and since the beginning of the last century were used to pave the sidewalks of Barcelona. Nowadays they're a symbol of Modernism or "Art Nouveau" in Barcelona.

Jean and I in Barcelona, checking out the famous "Rajoles" tiles

Really love this idea of 'architecture meets chocolate". Enric Rovira has a whole range of tiles-inspired chocolates - including some inspired by Gaudi's famous architecture - and the chocolate is delicious too. I mean, could you imagine chocolates designed after the tiles on the roof of the Sydney Opera House, or cobblestones in old Paris?!

So tell me dear reader, if you could design your chocolate bar after your favourite monuments or architecture icon, which one would you pick?

Favourite picnic spots in Sydney - Part 2

Morning tea 'picnic' organised by Mytinerary in Wendy Whiteley's 'secret garden' in Lavender Bay.

A couple of weeks ago, I wrote a post around some of my absolute favourite picnic spots in Sydney for the summer.

Since then, I've received so many interesting tips from readers and friends that I thought I'd update my initial post with another round-up of locals' favourite picnic spots - with an updated Google map (see end of this post).

One of the places I love taking friends and clients to is Wendy Whitely's 'secret garden' in Lavender Bay near Milsons Point - a gem known only to a handful of streetwise Sydneysiders. Created by Wendy Whiteley after the death of her husband, famous Sydney artist Brett, in 1992, the once derelict green space has been transformed into a spectacularly lush garden and prime picnic spot. 

Fabulous views of the city and Harbour Bridge from Wendy Whiteley's garden, which you can either access by ferry (to Luna Park), water taxi (Lavender Bay wharf) or by train (a 5-10 mn walk from Milsons Point station)

Other tips I've received from friends and readers include:

- Mrs Macquarie's Chair - for its unbeatable views of the Harbour Bridge and Opera House

- Redleaf Pool, just below the Woollahra Council building, in Double Bay

- Milk Beach in Sydney's Eastern Suburbs, with its fantastic views of the city skyline and Harbour Bridge

- Clontarf Reserve near the Spit Bridge

- Reef Beach, on the beautiful Manly to Spit coastal walk

- Cremorne Point, especially at sunset (this is also one of my favourite spots to watch the New Year's Eve fireworks)

In Wendy Whiteley's 'secret garden' - where the passionate Wendy herself is seen gardening almost every day (clockwise, 2nd image). 

- McMahons Point, just near Lavender Bay

- Parsley Bay Reserve in Vaucluse, with its family-friendly enclosed swimming area, picnic tables and play equipment

- Bayview Marina and Reserve on the North Shore, with its fantastic views of Pittwater and the Pittwater Basin

- Bungan Beach on the Northern Beaches, between Mona Vale and Newport

- Rosherville Reserve in Mosman

- the grounds of the beautiful 1850s harbourside villa Strickland House in Vaucluse, with superb views across the harbour to the city, Bridge and Opera House. This hidden gem is practically unknown beyond a few in-the-know Sydneysiders.

So tell me guys, anything else I should add to the list?

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In the name of the Father, Son and Holy Chocolate

That would have to be one of my favourite prayers. Give me a box of velvety chocolate truffles, or a silky smooth bar of single origin chocolate from Venezuela, and I'm in heaven!

Back in the 19th century, chocolate artisans from Provence in the south of France must have considered chocolate as a sure fire ticket to heaven as well. 

To pay tribute to the local Catholic friars and nuns who had been helping the local poor for decades, they decided to create a thin chocolate ganache with nuts and dried fruits, and called their new creation "chocolate mendiants". 

"Chocolate mendiants" from Kakawa in Darlinghurst, Sydney

A "mendiant" means a "beggar" in French, and some of the most famous Catholic orders created in the 13th century - the Franciscans, Carmelites, Dominicans and Augustinians - were referred to as the 4 "Ordres Mendiants", or "Mendicant orders".

These friars and nuns sought to imitate the life of Jesus by observing absolute poverty and dedicating their life to preaching the gospel and helping the local poor. They depended directly on the charity of the people for their livelihood - hence the "beggar' reference. 

 
The Franciscans and their brown robes; the Dominicans and their white robes.

The original nuts and dried fruits in the "chocolate mendiant" recipe - namely walnut / hazelnut, dried fig, almond and sultana - were a direct reference to the different robe colours of each order.

Nowadays, chocolate artisans also use delicious ingredients such as dried orange peel, dried berries or shredded coconut in their "chocolate mendiants". In Sydney, my favourite "mendiants" come from Kakawa in Darlinghurst.

Chocolate mendiants from Kakawa in Darlinghurst, Sydney

If you want to try them, as well as taste other delicious chocolate treats and find out more about culinary traditions from France, why don't you join our exciting "13 Desserts of Provence" Christmas lunch on Saturday 11 December? Tickets are selling fast though, so we recommend early bookings!

So tell me dear reader, what kind of food brings YOU straight to heaven?

The Ultimate Kitchen Garden at Versailles Palace

Was Louis XIV 'the Sun King' the ultimate foodie?

Errr... Is there some sort of casting to become a gardener at Versailles??

Long before sustainable food advocates such as Michelle Obama, Alice Waters, Stephanie Alexander and Maggie Beer helped spread the word on kitchen gardens, Louis XIV was commissioning the development of a huge kitchen garden for his Versailles Palace so he could have everything he needed for his lavish banquets. 

The Sun King's Kitchen Garden is still operating today, and a range of preserves, jams and hard-to-find fruits and vegetables are available for purchase.

It took Royal Gardener Jean-Baptiste La Quintinie over 5 years (from 1678 to 1683) to complete the masterpiece - also known as 'Le Potager du Roi'.

The thing is, the kitchen garden is almost intact from those times, and few international travellers are aware that you can actually visit the garden year round - and for just a couple of euros. This is a fantastic hidden gem.

So my advice to foodies - or people with an interest in gardens - who are thinking of visiting Versailles Palace while in Paris, is to go to the Potager du Roi as well. 

It's definitely worth spending a good hour, plus it's a great way to beat the crowds at the Chateau (start with the Kitchen Garden, then head to the Chateau later in the afternoon). 

Sydney Open: my behind-the-scenes architecture adventures in Sydney last Sunday

Here I am, standing backstage at the prestigious Sydney Theatre in Walsh Bay, looking at the production team putting the finishing touches to the set of the much anticipated 'Uncle Vanya' by Chekhov, starring Australia's very own acting legends Cate Blanchett, Hugo Weaving, John Bell and Richard Roxburgh. 

I'm extremely impressed by the sheer scale of the wings area. The ceiling must be at least 10 meter high and there's a gigantic set of doors right in front of me, used for the delivery of unusually big pieces of equipment on stage.

Sydney Theatre at Walsh Bay. The entrance of the main performance hall is lined with recycled timber from the wharf - really beautiful.

I'm surrounded by kilometers of meticulously labelled cables and plugs, a mountain of half-empty paint tins, a random collection of stage props, and roll after roll of plastic films in every colour in the rainbow (the films are used as filters for the on-stage lights).

As I'm shown the way to the make-up and dressing rooms for an exclusive 'behind-the-scenes' sneak peek, I feel like pinching myself - how lucky am I to be here?! 

The beautiful Walsh Bay area and its heritage-listed timber wharfs

Well actually, everyone was invited along to the party - courtesy of the 2010 Sydney Open (Nov 6-7).

Every two years, Sydney Open - which is part of the Sydney Architecture Festival - celebrates Sydney's rich architectural heritage, with a $40 "City Pass" giving you access to over 50 buildings and sites normally off-limits.

The Grace Hotel; skyscrapers in the CBD

From architectural icons to hidden places, award-winning contemporary designs to much-loved heritage buildings, Sydney Open is a fantastic opportunity to re-discover Sydney's iconic buildings and get a fresh perspective on your own city - becoming a tourist in your hometown for a whole weekend (something that's very dear to my heart).

In addition to the very environment-friendly Sydney Theatre, some of my favourite visits last Sunday included the Sydney Harbour YHA youth hostel in The Rocks (the hostel is built above ‘The Big Dig’, the largest archaeological urban development ever completed in Australia); the beautiful Art Deco State Theatre and the Great Synagogue on Elizabeth Street. 

The Art Deco State Theatre on Market St

Gorgeous illustrations in official Sydney Festival 2011 program

Surry Hills, Sydney, by Marcela Restrepo

WOW. The Sydney Festival have just announced their line-up for the 2011 Festival - get ready for an exciting Sydney summer!!

John Malkovich in Sydney Opera House, a new production by our very own Sydney Dance Company, Arrested Development in Martin Place, the return of Smoke & Mirrors in the Spiegeltent, the Australian Chamber Orchestra in the big outdoors at the Regatta Centre in Penrith, Symphony in the Domain - and much much more.

But what really grabbed my attention was the gorgeous illustrations by Marcela Restrepo, a Colombian illustrator based in Sydney. Love love love her work - check this out!

Tickets for the Sydney Festival 2011 go on sale on Monday 15 November at 9:00am.

For more info on the program and ticket packages, visit www.sydneyfestival.org.au. You can also follow the Sydney Festival on Twitter (@sydney_festival, hashtag #sydfest).

For more info on Marcela's work, you can visit her website and blog. You can also buy limited-edition prints from her online store (pretty cool Xmas gift idea if you ask me!). In Australia, Marcela is represented by the super talented and all-almighty Jacky Winter Group in Melbourne, who in my humble opinion NEVER get it wrong when they sign up new creative talent.

So what do you think of her illustrations?

For the diary: join our '13 Christmas desserts of Provence' lunch on Saturday, 11 Dec 2010

Woo hoo!! I've been working on this event for some time and now I can finally share all the details with you - it's going to be so much fun!!

Do you want to experience an authentic, French-style Christmas event without having to go to France? Are you looking for a fresh, exciting Christmas gift idea for the food lovers in your life? Are you interested in meeting with other Sydney-based francophiles with a taste for the good life? Look no further!

On Saturday 11 December 2010, Mytinerary will be celebrating the wonderful flavours of Provence and Mediterranean cooking with a special Christmas lunch. Think olives, lemon confit, fresh garden vegetables, slow-cooked meat with thyme, rosemary and other Provençal herbs.

The highlight of the lunch will be the famous, century-old Provence tradition of the "13 Desserts of Christmas": expect a dessert extravaganza with all sorts of tasty treats (each with a specific symbolic meaning in local tradition), from nougats and marzipan to nuts, citrus-based desserts and exclusive chocolates playing with Mediterranean flavours.

Some of the desserts you'll enjoy on the day will be handmade by some of my absolute favourite chocolate artisans in Sydney, such as Kakawa, Boon and Coco Chocolate. A great way for you to discover amazingly talented artisans in your backyard, and a great way for me to continue to support these great local businesses.

The lunch will be hosted by Mytinerary founder - and passionate French foodie Myriam Thibault - and will take place at Tastevin Bistro & Wine Bar in the heart of Sydney's vibrant Darlinghurst - a convenient and central location. Tastevin serves delicious traditional French cuisine with a modern Australian twist. Their wine list is really excellent, and we'll get some beautiful wines from the South of France for you to enjoy on the day.

Date: Saturday 11 December, 2010 - 12:30pm.

The price per person is $89 for a 3-course lunch and dessert degustation, including delicious matching wine from Provence and a gourmet goodie bag - which makes the whole experience really quite affordable.

To secure your booking, call us now on 1300 951 138 or contact us at [email protected]. You can also book online via our events page.

Gorgeous personalised gift vouchers are also available for the event, just ask us.

Mytinerary is also proud to support the Street Smart Australia 'Dine Out to Help Out' initiative by donating $2 per guest on our December 11 event.  

StreetSmart Australia and its restaurant partners are calling for Australians to 'Dine Out to Help Out' once again this Christmas. In its eighth year, the campaign's winning formula makes it easy for anyone to get involved and raise vital money for grassroots charities supporting homelessness. 

To be held from 8th November to 24 December 2010, 'Dine Out to help out" is run through restaurants by asking people to add a small donation to their bill. The money collected is then donated directly to support homeless refuges and charities selected based on their need and proximity to participating restaurants.

I can't wait to share with you the wonderful culinary traditions of Provence - don't miss out! And stay tuned for more delicious gourmet news and recipes inspired by Provence!!

Favourite picnic spots in Sydney - Part 1

[This post has been updated since its first publication. Click here for Part 2, with another round-up of locals' favourite picnic spots.]

One of the questions I get asked A LOT as a private tour guide is "What's your favourite spot in Sydney for a romantic picnic, or a picnic with friends?"

The thing is, it's like having to choose between one's children - there are so many fantastic picnic spots in Sydney, we're really spoiled for choice!

One of the places I often take clients to is Shark Island, in the middle of the Sydney Harbour. Gorgeous island with a beautiful rotunda, million-dollar views over the Harbour Bridge and Opera House and shaded picnic spots with tables and benches. Just perfect. Besides, Shark Island is usually very quiet, because few people are aware of access rules and regulations, so it's almost like renting your own private island. Bring on the Moët and feel like a VIP for next to nothing! 

Gourmet picnic on Shark Island by Mytinerary. With some of Sydney's best artisan food, including fresh baguette from Brasserie Bread, dukkah, Bitton olive tapenade, charcuterie from Leichhardt, french Champagne, berries, cupcakes from Sparkle Cupcakery, fruit marshmallows from Sweetness the Patisserie and chocolate tarts from Bourke St Bakery in Surry Hills. 

Other spots I really like for secluded or romantic picnics include Bradley's Head amphitheatre, Collins Beach in Manly, McKell Park on Darling Point, the gorgeous Arthur McElhone Reserve in Elizabeth Bay, the Wendy Whiteley garden in Lavender Bay and the Manns Point Park in Greenwich.

What about you? What are some of your favourite picnic spots in Australia?

Bradley's Head amphitheatre

Mytinerary organises gourmet picnics for private clients and corporates, taking care of everything for you, from the location and picnic basket to a bottle of Champagne and private water taxi transfers. Email us at [email protected] for enquiries and quotes. 

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