Let's put it that way: if you only had one day in Paris, I'd advise you to go to L'Avant-Comptoir. It's THAT good, and inexpensive, and iconically French. This is one of the places I always go back to each time I go back home.
Jean and I enjoying a glass of red and 'jambon de Bayonne'
L'Avant-Comptoir is an offshoot from more famous "Le Comptoir du Relais". Both are run by French bistro maestro Jean-Yves Camdeborde.
Camdeborde is the godfather of no-fuss modern bistro gastronomy and one of my absolute favourite chefs back home. He was also one of the chef judges on the French version of MasterChef - kind of a gallic version of Gary Mehigan.
Sliced squids and pig ears; black pudding macarons
This tiny, standing-room-only bar in the heart of vibrant Saint-Germain des Pres is where you go for fabulous wine by the glass and a quick bite to eat (we call it "dejeuner sur le pouce" in French, or 'eating on the thumb'), or for nibbles before lunch or dinner.
Vibrant Saint-Germain-des-Pres; foie gras skewers
They have a fantastic selection of regional charcuterie and 'hors d'oeuvre' - dazzling patrons (lots of regulars, lots of chefs around too) with a French version of Spanish tapas.
Roasted chicken, foie gras skewers, pickles, octopus carpaccio, prawns a la plancha, black pudding macarons - you name it.
One of favourite 'hors d'oeuvre' at L'Avant-Comptoir was a dish of sliced pigs ears and squids - just to die for. Most dishes are inspired by the Basque Country and south west of France, where Camdeborde is from.
Service is really relaxed and nice, and everyone gets to talk to everyone - great vibe! And all the guys behind the counter are really knowledgeable and passionate about the products they serve you.
So tell me, dear reader, where is the ONE place you recommend people visit in your hometown, should they only be there for 24 hours?
L'Avant Comptoir: 3 Carrefour de l'Odeon, 75006 Paris. No phone, no bookings. Open 7/7. Metro: Odeon.
Why, oh why, did we not know you before we went to Paris :(
I guess we'll just have to save our pennies and go again!
Love the tips and reading your personal perspective of the places.
S
Posted by: Sally | 12/17/2010 at 08:46 AM
The only comment I have Myriam is if you would consider trading businesses? Transcription isn't as dull as it seems ... really.
Posted by: Annalisa | 12/17/2010 at 02:38 PM
Ah ah ah - you're so funny Annalisa! Knowing about the adventures in your life as a thriving entrepreneur in the transcription business, I know it is NOTHING like dull ;-))
Posted by: Myriam | 12/21/2010 at 06:56 AM
Thank you Sally - hope you can travel to Paris again soon! PS: Jesus, I wouldn't want to be there right now, with all the snow, virtually no public transport and lots of grumpy visitors and Parisians... We're better off here in Sydney chilling out on the beach.
Posted by: Myriam | 12/21/2010 at 06:58 AM
Wow the one place you would recommend we go to? It's got to be good! :D
Posted by: Lorraine @ Not Quite Nigella | 12/21/2010 at 04:27 PM
Hi Lorraine, yes, that's the place I was telling you about - a must do in Paris!
Posted by: Myriam | 12/27/2010 at 10:51 AM
I couldn't agree with you more Myriam. I went there for the first time in December and it is hands down one of my best experiences in the city. I was totally crammed in but thoroughly content munching my way through the dangling menu and shouting my order out at the bar man (who is incredibly efficient given the space he is dealing with). Nice post!
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