Detours. A French expat’s insider's guide to exclusive food, chocolate and travel experiences in Sydney, Australia.

The ultimate cheese shop in Paris

Dear friends, you want in on a little secret?

Laurent Dubois is my all-time favourite cheese shop or 'fromager' in Paris. The crème de le crème of brie and camembert, the Coco Chanel of cheesemongers. 

Dubois opened his first cheese store about 15 years ago and hasn't looked back. Nowadays people travel from all over Paris - and beyond - to stock up on his amazing cheeses. So it's a place you can't miss, if you love food and are planning a visit to Paris!

 
What makes the place really special is the sheer variety of cheeses on offer, with many cheeses sourced direct from some of the best regional producers in France. Think Morbier, Roquefort, Epoisses, Gruyère, Fourme d'Ambert, Saint Nectaire, Reblochon, Brillat Savarin, Vacherin, Comté, Saint Marcellin - and many many more.

Dubois also sells a pretty unique range of vintage cheeses, matured for up to several years in his own ageing cellars.

Another draw card is the store's really elegant design and displays - nothing like what you'd expect from a typical cheese shop (note to my Sydney friends: Dubois is kind of doing with cheese what Woollahra's über chic butcher Victor Churchill is doing with meat). 

Last but not least, you should know that Dubois holds the highly coveted "MOF" title (for Meilleur Ouvrier de France, or Best Craftsman in France).

MOF is a competition held every 3-4 years, designed to single out the best craftsmen and artisans in France, across a number of trades. This competition requires months, sometimes years, of preparation - with the winning candidates retaining their title for life. Kind of like winning the Oscars of cheesemaking.

So tell me, dear reader, are you cheese lovers yourself, or do you run away at the mere mention of smelly cheese? Which type of cheese are you partial to? 

Laurent Dubois Fromager: 47 ter Boulevard Saint Germain on Place Maubert (75005 Paris) and 2 rue de Lourmel near the Eiffel Tower (75015 Paris)

www.fromagelaurentdubois.com

There's light at the end of the (Mirazozo) tunnel

Suffering from January blues? Feeling a bit depressed about being back at work so soon after the summer holidays? Sighing with nostalgia at the thought of those lazy summer afternoons on the beach, with a great book in one hand and a chilled mojito diet coke in the other?

I know the feeling...

Indulging my inner child at Mirazozo

Thank God for Sydney in January, with fabulous events such as the Sydney Festival and St George Open Air Cinema providing lots of options for an inspiring night out.

If you're looking for a sure-fire remedy to lift your spirits and help you get over your 'January blues', I strongly recommend you pay a visit to the Mirazozo inflatable wonderland at the Sydney Opera House forecourt. 

Stepping into that walk-in giant sculpture is a fantastic visual experience - very 'Alice-in-Wonderland-meets-2001-a-Space-Odyssey'.

Think 1300 square metres of tunnels, pods and domes - all lit in bright colours, with thin rays of light shining through. The structure or 'luminaria' created by British-born, French resident Alan Parkinson is made of coloured plastic that's just a millimetre thick, which is thin enough so natural light can pass through it, yet tough enough to withstand thousands of visitors (Parkinson's four 'luminaria' have been seen by nearly 2 million people in 37 countries).

The whole experience is quite relaxing, and people who've visited Mirazozo liken it to being inside a womb, or a futuristic cathedral of light and colour.

And at only $10, tickets are cheaper than Prozac but hurry up, Mirazozo closes this coming Thursday (January 27). For more info and to purchase tickets, visit the Sydney Opera House website.

So tell me, dear reader, what secret weapon brightens your mood when you're feeling a bit down after the holidays?

 

Open Day at the Wharf: behind the scenes with Sydney's performing arts companies

I love theatre...

Borrowing words from Cate Blanchett and Andrew Upton in the 2011 season leaflet of the Sydney Theatre Company, "theatre gives you a chance to lead many lives, to experience many more moments than those (too few) allotted to us by fate."

The beautiful Wharf 1 Theatre and its heritage-listed timber building

And when I say I love theatre, I mean performing arts in general - from contemporary dance, circus and musicals to ballet, cabaret and opera.

So you can imagine how happy I was earlier this month to be able to spend a whole day behind the scenes at some of Sydney's leading performing arts companies, from Sydney Dance Company and Bangarra Dance Company, to Sydney Philharmonia Choirs, the Bell Shakespeare Company and the Sydney Theatre Company.

In the costume department at STC (Carrie Bradshaw would go crazy in there!); the beautiful crown designed by Lisa Cooper aka The Butcher's Daughter for 'The War of the Roses')

Walsh Bay's annual "Open Day at the Wharf" was just magical, one of my absolute best Sundays this year... Dance workshops galore, open rehearsals, concerts, a mini show followed by a Q&A with Sydney Dance Company Artistic Director Rafael Bonachela, guided backstage tours and even DIY crafts with the production teams at the Sydney Theatre.

The funky set production warehouse at STC

One of the best things about that day was to see how much the talented people you never get to see on stage (special effects people, sound and light technicians, set designers, choreographers) enjoyed being able to interact with the public and share with them their inspiration, passion and secret tricks. That was quite emotional, to tell you the truth...

The special effects team showing us the trick behind the rain effect in 'Uncle Vanya' (they're using silicone beads); actor Wayne Blair telling us about the fight scenes and props used in 'True West'

Postcard from Kakadu National Park, Australia

Today I'm just taking a break from my quest for Sydney's best chocolates and other edible gems to tell you about Kakadu National Park, one of my absolute favourite places in Australia. Kakadu is so beautiful, wild, lush, and so iconically Australian... It's also the largest national park in the country, with plenty to do and see.

So if you're thinking of travelling to Australia, or if you're living here but planning an interstate escape for 2011, here are my Top-5 reasons to visit Kakadu:

1. The light and colours there are unlike anything else. So vibrant. Pure eye candy.

2. The landscapes are spectacular. Think savanna woodlands, waterfalls, billabongs, meandering rivers, scenic bushwalking.

Postcard from the Great Ocean Road, Australia

Hello there! Just a quick postcard from the 12 Apostles on the Great Ocean Road in Victoria, south west of Melbourne.

I have to say, this was one of my best road trips ever: fabulous landscapes, iconic beaches, amazing wildlife (lots of koalas in the wild!) and national parks, great bushwalking, good surf (not so much my cup of tea but husband raved about the waves, we even stopped at the World Surfing Museum in Torquay, definitely worth a visit), and really good food too, from hole-in-the-wall fresh fish eateries to more sophisticated gourmet spots such as Chris's Restaurant in the Otways.

If you can, try to spend a couple of days there, because there's a lot to do and a day trip won't give the Great Ocean Road justice... To plan your trip, check out the local Tourist Office website, lots of interesting info.

So tell me dear reader, have you already visited the Great Ocean Road? Which other road trips did you like best in Australia?

The Ultimate Kitchen Garden at Versailles Palace

Was Louis XIV 'the Sun King' the ultimate foodie?

Errr... Is there some sort of casting to become a gardener at Versailles??

Long before sustainable food advocates such as Michelle Obama, Alice Waters, Stephanie Alexander and Maggie Beer helped spread the word on kitchen gardens, Louis XIV was commissioning the development of a huge kitchen garden for his Versailles Palace so he could have everything he needed for his lavish banquets. 

The Sun King's Kitchen Garden is still operating today, and a range of preserves, jams and hard-to-find fruits and vegetables are available for purchase.

It took Royal Gardener Jean-Baptiste La Quintinie over 5 years (from 1678 to 1683) to complete the masterpiece - also known as 'Le Potager du Roi'.

The thing is, the kitchen garden is almost intact from those times, and few international travellers are aware that you can actually visit the garden year round - and for just a couple of euros. This is a fantastic hidden gem.

So my advice to foodies - or people with an interest in gardens - who are thinking of visiting Versailles Palace while in Paris, is to go to the Potager du Roi as well. 

It's definitely worth spending a good hour, plus it's a great way to beat the crowds at the Chateau (start with the Kitchen Garden, then head to the Chateau later in the afternoon). 

Sydney Open: my behind-the-scenes architecture adventures in Sydney last Sunday

Here I am, standing backstage at the prestigious Sydney Theatre in Walsh Bay, looking at the production team putting the finishing touches to the set of the much anticipated 'Uncle Vanya' by Chekhov, starring Australia's very own acting legends Cate Blanchett, Hugo Weaving, John Bell and Richard Roxburgh. 

I'm extremely impressed by the sheer scale of the wings area. The ceiling must be at least 10 meter high and there's a gigantic set of doors right in front of me, used for the delivery of unusually big pieces of equipment on stage.

Sydney Theatre at Walsh Bay. The entrance of the main performance hall is lined with recycled timber from the wharf - really beautiful.

I'm surrounded by kilometers of meticulously labelled cables and plugs, a mountain of half-empty paint tins, a random collection of stage props, and roll after roll of plastic films in every colour in the rainbow (the films are used as filters for the on-stage lights).

As I'm shown the way to the make-up and dressing rooms for an exclusive 'behind-the-scenes' sneak peek, I feel like pinching myself - how lucky am I to be here?! 

The beautiful Walsh Bay area and its heritage-listed timber wharfs

Well actually, everyone was invited along to the party - courtesy of the 2010 Sydney Open (Nov 6-7).

Every two years, Sydney Open - which is part of the Sydney Architecture Festival - celebrates Sydney's rich architectural heritage, with a $40 "City Pass" giving you access to over 50 buildings and sites normally off-limits.

The Grace Hotel; skyscrapers in the CBD

From architectural icons to hidden places, award-winning contemporary designs to much-loved heritage buildings, Sydney Open is a fantastic opportunity to re-discover Sydney's iconic buildings and get a fresh perspective on your own city - becoming a tourist in your hometown for a whole weekend (something that's very dear to my heart).

In addition to the very environment-friendly Sydney Theatre, some of my favourite visits last Sunday included the Sydney Harbour YHA youth hostel in The Rocks (the hostel is built above ‘The Big Dig’, the largest archaeological urban development ever completed in Australia); the beautiful Art Deco State Theatre and the Great Synagogue on Elizabeth Street. 

The Art Deco State Theatre on Market St

Favourite picnic spots in Sydney - Part 1

[This post has been updated since its first publication. Click here for Part 2, with another round-up of locals' favourite picnic spots.]

One of the questions I get asked A LOT as a private tour guide is "What's your favourite spot in Sydney for a romantic picnic, or a picnic with friends?"

The thing is, it's like having to choose between one's children - there are so many fantastic picnic spots in Sydney, we're really spoiled for choice!

One of the places I often take clients to is Shark Island, in the middle of the Sydney Harbour. Gorgeous island with a beautiful rotunda, million-dollar views over the Harbour Bridge and Opera House and shaded picnic spots with tables and benches. Just perfect. Besides, Shark Island is usually very quiet, because few people are aware of access rules and regulations, so it's almost like renting your own private island. Bring on the Moët and feel like a VIP for next to nothing! 

Gourmet picnic on Shark Island by Mytinerary. With some of Sydney's best artisan food, including fresh baguette from Brasserie Bread, dukkah, Bitton olive tapenade, charcuterie from Leichhardt, french Champagne, berries, cupcakes from Sparkle Cupcakery, fruit marshmallows from Sweetness the Patisserie and chocolate tarts from Bourke St Bakery in Surry Hills. 

Other spots I really like for secluded or romantic picnics include Bradley's Head amphitheatre, Collins Beach in Manly, McKell Park on Darling Point, the gorgeous Arthur McElhone Reserve in Elizabeth Bay, the Wendy Whiteley garden in Lavender Bay and the Manns Point Park in Greenwich.

What about you? What are some of your favourite picnic spots in Australia?

Bradley's Head amphitheatre

Mytinerary organises gourmet picnics for private clients and corporates, taking care of everything for you, from the location and picnic basket to a bottle of Champagne and private water taxi transfers. Email us at [email protected] for enquiries and quotes. 

View Favourite picnics spots in Sydney, Australia in a larger map

Your number's up! Walking the streets of Paddington and Surry Hills

As you know, one of the things I love most is walking the streets of Surry Hills and Paddington in Sydney, with their beautiful terrace houses, quirky alleyways, sophisticated wine bars, design studios in every corner and art galleries hidden in leafy backyards. And these colours, my God! Like a walk-in commercial for Farrow & Ball or Porter's Paint.

Anyway, over time I've developed a slightly weird obsession for street numbers - and I have a pretty significant picture collection by now. It's just that if you pay attention, some of the door numbers in this area are really beautiful and creative! Check this out:  

So tell me, what is it **YOU** like most about Surry Hills and Paddington?

Be a tourist in your own city

One of the things I love the most about my (relatively new) job is the fact that every day, in these same streets I thought I knew like the back of my hand, I keep on discovering new things. Details I hadn't noticed, hidden staircases I had never seen before, interesting colours on a wall, jewelry 'ateliers' tucked away in quiet alleyways... 

To me, that's the beauty of staying a tourist in one's own city. Do yourself a favour: keep your eyes open, don't become blasé, don't get stuck in the same routine, walking the same streets and going out to the same places all the time. You'll be amazed by what you'll discover.

Take this shot, for instance. I was walking in Paddington with clients the other night when I came across these stairs I had NEVER noticed before, and I instantly fell in love with the scene. Really liked the dramatic light / darkness contrast, the strong architectural lines and the eerie feeling created by the obstructed view at the top of the stairs. Very Hitchcock!

Now this other picture was shot in The Rocks last year, during the VIVID illuminations Festival (27 May-21 June 2010). I remember I was walking fast to try and catch my ferry back to Manly when something stopped me dead in my tracks. I looked up and took in the poetry of the scene, with this beautiful rainbow lighting, the moving silhouette and its reflection in the water, after the rain. All of this on my doorstep (well, sort of) and I could have missed it had I not paid enough attention!

So tell me, dear reader, are you a tourist in your own city? Are you paying enough attention to the beauty around you?